Cascades, Yak and on and on

10/28
So on my second day I went over the Cascades on the John Wayne Trail, a converted rail grade. It was nice riding without cars, up through the mountains. The pines and firs grew shorter, and soon I was in the tunnel through the pass. I camped by Lake Keechelus, making my first shells and cheese and tuna dinner. It was so good, indicating that I had indeed climbed mountains to get there. I turned in early, happy to get warm and cozy as night fell.

10/29
I got a slow start the next day; it was cold and damp outside and I just wanted to stay in my bivvy and bag. I met Jesse as I was packing up, happy to meet and talk to someone. She said my trip was inspirational, and this has stuck with me as a sort of burden. I need to let that sort of thing go. The riding was gently downhill, still on a gravelly path. About 15 miles on my way, I broke my Brooks, most likely because I was mounting a double rail saddle on the wrong seatpost. Evil looking clouds were rolling in from the North and I was riding along a front, fearing weather. The mountains behind me were disappearing into grey soup. I bailed from the trail at Cle Elum and took old Hwy 10 down to Ellensburg. The old highway goes along the North side of the Yakima river, and took me from forest to grassland. I rode hard to beat the storm that never came. Arriving in Ellensburg at dusk, I bought a new saddle and decided to motel it.

10/30
I'd seen the canyon road leading in between the hills South of Ellensburg before, but had always taken the highway around it. I'd wanted to follow it for some time, and was not disappointed. The picture from this post is looking down part of the Yakima River from Canyon Road. I loved the windy road, cottonwoods, and riffly waters. I'd followed the river most of the day before, but this was the big payoff. After several hours in the canyon, the land abruptly opened up, presenting the town of Selah on the hills opposite the river. Talking to a couple of locals, I determined I could take the highway or the long way over the Yakima and Naches rivers. Wide shoulders and lack of cycling prohibition led my bike onto I-82. Sometimes Ziggy leads the way. It was good most of the time, as far as surface and shoulder go. After 10 miles, I was more than happy to get on US 97. I rode again until dusk, and rented a teepee from the Yakima Nation.

10/31
That was the coldest night I spent outdoors in over a decade. What's my bag rated to anyway? Canvas teepees aren't made for indoor fires, and so I had a cold night with trains and owls hooting and whistling again and again. Tired, with an achey knee creaky in the cold - the family doc calls this "arthritis" - I had some doubts about my day. I climbed a small mountain South of Toppenish for about an hour. This dropped into a small river valley, not unlike the Yak. Only this was drier country, and the river was not so accessible, fenced off for cattle. This kept me from refilling my bottles; I wanted to hold out for better water. I slowly climbed the river grade in the foothills of the Simcoe mountains. The sun started to sink behind them, and my desired campground was still 2000' up and 10 miles along the road. I told myself how tough I was. Then I decided to hitch over the pass. Discretion. Valor. Etc.

Having some concern about being able to make it to Bend by the weekend, in order to meet Bob and Vicki when they were free, I was conflicted to find that I could get a ride not only over the pass, but all the way to Bend. This state persisted for at least five full seconds. I decided to take the opportunity presented, and head on down to Bend. Don was a kindly old samaritan, who turned around after a quarter mile or so to come back and pick me up. We talked most of the ride, and he seemed glad to have the company, refusing my offer of gas money. The scenery passed much faster. Back up into the juniper and ponderosa of the Simcoe mountains. Down to the Columbia, one of the best American river. Up the grasslands of the central Oregon Plateau. Through a few small farm towns.
Into increasing sagebrush, then juniper and pine, with more and more fire peaks appearing to the Southwest. Redmond. Bend. Thank you Don, for the lift and for good company.

11/1
Rest day in Bend. After riding around town a bit, finding a local bike shop and learning my way around, I rode out to the High Desert Museum. My trip has a desert theme, and this was a good educational opportunity. Also, I really dig natural history museums. It was that and much more, though I wish there'd been more natural history... I rode back and spent much of the afternoon at the Deschutes Brewery, my first beer in a week. So I tried all of the seasonal and pub only beers they had. I took notes. I especially recommend the Double Black and the Ghostbuster. The Lucky Dutch Lager was one of my favorite lagers ever, but the other two paired better with my sloppy joe. Yum.